Politics and News posts require moderator pre-approval and are limited to legislation with direct impact on the AR15 platform.Don't just show us your build, tell us about it. Images, videos, and links require a descriptive comment.All posts and comments are to be civil.Where you can find DIY, FAQ, and more! Subreddit Rules Hearing protection is an obligation each of us must assume on our own behalf.Welcome to /r/AR15! Here for your favorite black gun links, build photos, questions and other tactical or practical info. My main solution for recoil is to stay with chamberings that do not require masochistic self torture, and when necessary, add a Limbsaver. They do seem to cut back on the perceived racket vs a conventional brake. Mounting a linear compensator doesn't involve crush washers, etc. IMHO they don't do much at all for recoil, but they do seem to redirect sound downrange, which I consider being polite toward my neighbor and I've shot next to a braked 338 LM when nobody else would. I've been experimenting with linear compensators. I also think the timing nut is a better approach when timing is an issue, because I do expect that the crown will need to undergo carbon removal occasionally.īrakes are simply a part of the process of shooting on a line. My main concern is time involved in the the order, wait, delivery process, especially in days like these. I've tried shims, and they work, but I really think they could just as easily be considered an excess when (re)mounting a simple brake. I just don't go for one-use items they're a waste of money. I don't care about the cost of the washers, they're cheap enough. OK Bad idea, but at least somebody's thinking about restoring the crush washer to its original shape. Make sure it isn't too far forward on the bench. You may have to think about where you place things on your shooting bench, especially light stuff. He also had to deal with the effects of my brake, he didn't seem to be disconcerted. Yes, I could feel the effects of his brake, but it was nothing horrible. Yesterday, I was shooting next to a guy who had a Ruger which had a brake. However, all the ranges I go to, require hearing protection. For a lot of novice shooters, this is an important data point.Īnd yes, a brake does make a rifle louder/disturbing to your neighbor. If they have, it is a sign you had some weaknesses in your hold technique (almost everyone does on some level). The brake reduces the recoil, and you may discover your groups have moved, and are smaller. The difference is how YOU mechanically controlled recoil while the slug was travelling down the barrel. Then, put on the brake, shoot, and compare your groups. I would suggest you shoot some groups and zero before you put on the brake, but not for the reason you suspect. The classic (non-peel type), are intended for single use. I bought a 5 pack of them for about 8 bucks. when I search on SnipersHide, I mostly see (not-at-all-helpful) answers like "Pay a good gunsmith to do it." or "buy a better brake." - I am happy with what I bought - I am just a little confused- I was under the impression you can take them on and off at will - if you have to burn a $3 crush washer each time, I'd assume it's more of a semi-permanent type of thing.Īnd lastly- timing is just making sure the ports are where you want them, right? In my particular case, it has large left-and-right ports and a few smaller ports on the top - timing it is just making sure the ports on the top are on the top, right?Ĭrush washers are cheap.
Ar 15 muzzle brake washer install#
when I use the Crush Washer and install the brake, am I going to be needing to buy and install a new crush washer every time I unscrew the brake (for cleaning etc.) and putting it back on? I have Googled this a few times, and mostly get answers involving car oil changes, and the answer seems "Yes, you need a new one everytime you do this.". This particular one comes with a Crush Washer - I took the advice in some of the reviews and bought and extra. I have never used a detachable muzzle brake before. I have yet to shoot it yet with the pad installed, because I was waiting to get the brake in the mail, in order to compare a 'before and after.) - and I also found what seemed to be a great deal on an "AR-STONER Precision Muzzle Brake" - which seemed like a steal at $20. However, in an effort to mitigate 308 recoil as much as possible (especially 180gr rounds, which are most of what I have stocked.) - I bought and installed a new LimbSaver AirTech recoil pad (I have various LimbSavers on my considerable shotgun collection, and they've always been *amazing* - so I figured I would try on a rifle.
I recently bought a new Tikka T3X UPR and am very happy with it. I was hoping I could draw on the brain trust here and gain a little insight and knowledge on the subject of muzzle brakes, especially in concern with crush washers.
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